Less well-known tourist spots in Japan. 坂本 Sakamoto Shiga Prefecture.

2025年9月9日2026年9月3日

After getting off the train, you can walk up the slightly uphill approach to Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine and arrive in the town of Sakamoto. The approach is a modern road with cars running down the middle, but the sidewalks on both sides are paved with stone walls and cobblestones, retaining the atmosphere of medieval Japan.

Old stone lanterns stand in the grass beside the sidewalk, and old cherry and maple trees spread their branches. In spring, the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, and in autumn the maples turn bright red. The trunks of the trees are also covered in moss.

A town that retains traces of medieval Japan

There are stone walls everywhere in this town. People who were skilled at building stone walls have lived in the nearby village of Anao since ancient times. They had the skills to build sturdy stone walls using natural stones without processing them. They were called the Anoushu and were active from the Muromachi period to the Sengoku period. They were a professional group similar to the mason guilds and masons of medieval Europe.

The stone walls they built were not only sturdy but also beautiful. They gained a reputation as “Anoushu-zumi" and were adopted for many castles and temples. Oda Nobunaga’s Azuchi Castle was also built with Anoushu-zumi. They also built the stone walls of the Satobo in Sakamoto. Satobo is a residence for high-ranking monks who trained at Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hiei and retired from the mountain when they grew old. They built it with faith.

Satobo are lined up on both sides of the approach to the temple, forming a street. The buildings and large gardens are surrounded by stone walls and hedges. Walking along the narrow paths of the moss-covered stone walls of the Satobo, you feel as if time has stopped. There is a silence here that is not found in other tourist destinations.

Sakamoto is a city with a long history.

Sakamoto is a town built on an alluvial fan created by a river flowing out of Mount Hiei. It is located on the southern shore of Lake Biwa. Located to the east of Kyoto across Mt. Hiei and facing Lake Biwa, Sakamoto became an important port where goods from the eastern provinces and Hokuriku region gathered. It also developed as a temple town, with the location of Enryaku-ji Temple on Mt. Hiei, Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine, and Saiko-ji Temple.

During the Sengoku period, the 12th and 13th shoguns of the Muromachi shogunate, Ashikaga Yoshiharu and Hosokawa Harumoto, were defeated by Miyoshi Nagayoshi and fled here. During the Azuchi-Momoyama period, Akechi Mitsuhide built Sakamoto Castle, but after Mitsuhide was defeated in the Battle of Yamazaki following the Honnoji Incident, his senior vassal Akechi Hidemitsu set the castle on fire. Copper coins have also been minted in Sakamoto since ancient times. In the Edo period, circulating coins called Kyo-sen were minted. Dutch merchants called Kyo-sen “Sakamoto" and exported them to China and Southeast Asia.

It takes 16 minutes by train from the world-famous tourist destination Kyoto to Sakamoto.

During the Sengoku period, the 12th and 13th shoguns of the Muromachi shogunate, Ashikaga Yoshiharu and Ashikaga Yoshiteru, and Hosokawa Harumoto, fled here after losing a battle against Miyoshi Nagayoshi.During the Azuchi-Momoyama period, Akechi Mitsuhide built Sakamoto Castle, but after losing the Battle of Yamazaki, his senior vassal Akechi Hidemitsu set the castle on fire. This historic town is just a short distance from tourist-filled Kyoto.

It takes 16 minutes on the Kosei Line from JR Kyoto Station to Hieizan Sakamoto Station, and costs 320 yen. Modern transportation has made this distant town on the other side of Mount Hiei surprisingly close. If you take the Keihan Railway, you can take the Tozai Line from Sanjo Keihan to Biwako Hamaotsu Station, then transfer to the Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line and go to Sakamoto Hieizanguchi Station. This route takes about 35 minutes because the Ishiyama Sakamoto Line only stops at every station.

The small train stops at tourist spots such as Miidera, Anato, and Matsu no Baba. The fare is also expensive at 570 yen, but if you want to enjoy your trip, this is the way to go. You can also walk about 5 minutes from JR Otsukyo Station to Keihan Hamaotsu Station, transfer to the Ishiyama Sakamoto Line, and enjoy the area along the line. From Sakamoto-Hieizanguchi Station, you can reach Ishiyama-dera Temple, famous for Murasaki Shikibu, in about 30 minutes. It would be fun to go and see Murasaki Shikibu while sightseeing in Sakamoto.

The streetscape of the Satobo temples – Former Chikurin-in temple is perfect for Instagram

The highlight is the Satobo. There are more than 50 Satobo in Sakamoto. There is a gate facing the road, and it is surrounded by stone walls, walls, and hedges made in the style of Anato-shu-zumi. Inside there is a garden and a building in a secluded area. The Satobo have meditative names such as Shikan-in, Eko-in, and Ritsu-in, as they are the homes of high-ranking monks. This historical landscape has been designated an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings by the Agency for Cultural Affairs.

The Satobo gardens are spacious and wonderful. The garden of the former Chikurin-in is set on a vast site, with a hill built with Mount Hachioji as a backdrop, and a meandering stream and waterfalls that draw water from the Omiya River. The quiet presence is soothing to the soul, and recently it has also become a popular Instagram spot. It seems that the greenery of the garden reflected in the low table is striking.

Saikyouji Temple and Hiyoshi Taisha

There are many other things to see. Hiyoshi Taisha is the head shrine of the Sanno-san, which has over 3,800 shrines nationwide. The grounds are spacious with clear streams running through them, and there are few people around, creating a mystical atmosphere. The main halls of the national treasures, the East and West Main Shrines, the Hiyoshi Sanbashi Bridge, said to be the oldest stone bridge in Japan, and the Saruishi stone, which resembles a sitting monkey, are highlights.

The shrine is located in the front demon gate of Heian-kyo. It has protected the Imperial Palace as the guardian deity of Kyoto since the Heian-kyo period. It was also worshiped as the guardian deity of Enryaku-ji Temple on Mount Hiei. The messenger of the god here is a monkey. This is because monkeys are associated with “evil goes away" and “victory." There is also a wooden carved monkey on the corner of the demon gate wall of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. This place is also famous as a famous spot for viewing maples, and it is lit up at night in the fall.

Saikyo-ji is the head temple of the Tendai Shinsei sect. It is said to have been founded by Prince Shotoku. In the Muromachi period, after the monk Jie Daishi Ryogen restored the dilapidated temple, the monk Shinsho restored the temple buildings and teachings, making it a training center for precepts and nembutsu. The stately main hall, made entirely of zelkova, houses a 「Zyoroku Amida Buddha」, an Important Cultural Property.

The guest hall was relocated from the palace of Fushimi Momoyama Castle, and many Kano school paintings, as well as portraits and floral and bird paintings on the sliding doors remain. There are four gardens, including the guest hall garden designed by Kobori Enshu, which makes clever use of the slope of the mountain behind the temple, allowing visitors to enjoy the nature of the four seasons. This temple is also associated with Akechi Mitsuhide. Mitsuhide worked hard to restore the temple, which was burned down when Nobunaga burned down Mount Hiei. The graves of Mitsuhide’s wife, Teruko, and his family are located within the temple grounds. The view of Lake Biwa from the mountain gate is beautiful. I wonder if Mitsuhide also saw it.

Shigain Monzeki

Shiga-in Monzeki was relocated from Hossho-ji Temple in Kitashirakawa, Kyoto, by Tenkai Daisojo, a secret advisor to Tokugawa Ieyasu. The temple boasts a high status, with a member of the imperial family serving as the head priest of Tendai until the end of the Edo period. The vast grounds are surrounded by stone walls made of “Anoushu-zumi", and include a shoin study with Kano school screen paintings from the early Edo period, as well as a wonderful garden with stonework, plantings, waterfalls and stone bridges, said to have been created by Kobori Enshu.

There is a theory that Tenkai Sojo’s true identity is Akechi Mitsuhide, who is supposed to be dead. This is supported by his handwriting and the Chinese bellflower crest. It makes you think that Tenkai Sojo might have supported Sakamoto, who was associated with Akechi Mitsuhide. Other points of interest include Hiyoshi Toshogu Shrine, Ritsuin Temple, and Jigen-do Hall. If you have time, why not take the cable car to Enryaku-ji Temple at the top of Mount Hiei?

Kyoto’s tourist attractions are all packed with people. If you don’t want to be surrounded by crowds, why not take a trip to Sakamoto and enjoy the silence? It’s nice to spend half a day in a medieval town that changes its appearance with each season, with cherry blossoms in spring, greenery in summer, autumn leaves in fall, and white snow in winter. If you get hungry, try some tempura soba at Tsuruki, a 300-year-old soba restaurant, and your trip to Sakamoto will be complete.

電車を降りて日吉大社の参道をものの５分も歩けば坂本の街につく。参道は広く、中央を車が走っているのを除けば石畳の歩道と石垣が続く風景はまるで中世日本である。道路と歩道の間に草地があって所々に古い石灯篭が立っている。桜やもみじの古木がそのうえに枝を広げている。その幹もまた苔に覆われている。春は桜が満開になり秋はもみじが真っ赤に色づくのだろう。

日本の中世の面影を残す街

坂本は石垣の街である。古くから近郊の穴太村に石垣作りを良くする人たちが住んでいたからだ。彼らは穴太衆（あのうしゅう）と呼ばれる石垣建築の専門集団だった。穴太衆は自然の石を使って堅牢な石垣を築いた。その石垣は堅固なだけでなく美しかったので、「穴太衆積み（あのうしゅうずみ）」として評判になり数々の城郭や寺院に採用された。彼らは室町時代から戦国時代にかけて活躍した。織田信長の安土城も穴太衆積みである。

彼らは坂本の里坊の石垣も作った。彼らは信仰心を持ってそれを築いた。坂本は比叡山延暦寺の門前町である。高僧は年老いて修行が出来なくなると比叡山を降り坂本で庵を結んだ。それが里坊である。里坊は建屋と広い庭園が石垣や生垣に囲こまれている。里坊と里坊の間は石垣に挟まれた細い路地になっている。苔むした石垣の細い道を歩けば中世から時間が止まっている感覚になる。他の観光地に無い静寂がある。

世界的観光地の京都から坂本まで電車で１６分

坂本は、比叡山を挟んで京都の東隣、びわ湖の南岸に位置した。東国や北陸から運ばれる物資を京都や大阪へ中継するのに絶好の港だった。街は比叡山延暦寺や日吉大社、西教寺の門前町としても栄える。商業が栄えたことから銅銭の鋳造が盛んになり、江戸時代になると京銭と呼ばれる流通銭の鋳造が行われた。オランダ商人は京銭を「サカモト」と名付けて中国や東南アジアに輸出した。

当時は大きな都市だったので、戦国時代には室町幕府12代将軍足利義晴・13代将軍足利義輝、細川晴元が、三好長慶に追われて都落ちしている。安土桃山時代に明智光秀が坂本城を築き城下町になった。城は光秀が山崎の戦いに敗れたあと重臣明智秀満が火を放った。そんな歴史のある街が観光客でごった返す京都から僅かの距離にある。

JR京都駅から坂本のある比叡山坂本駅まで、湖西線で所要時間は１６分、運賃は３２０円だ。昔は比叡山の向こうの遠い街だった。それがわずか１６分である。京阪電車なら、三条京阪から地下鉄東西線でびわ湖浜大津駅まで行き、京阪石山坂本線に乗り換えて坂本比叡山口駅まで行く。この路線は各駅停車だから３５分くらいかかる。運賃も５７０円と高くなる。

この路線は、小さな電車が三井寺、穴太、松の馬場などの観光スポットに停まって行く。旅を楽しむならこちらが良いのである。JR大津京駅から京阪浜大津駅まで５分ほど歩き石山坂本線から乗ることもできる。坂本比叡山口駅から紫式部で有名な石山寺へも３０分くらいで行ける。坂本観光のついでに紫式部に会いに行くのも一興だ。

里坊の街並み　旧竹林院のインスタ映え

坂本には５０余りの里坊がある。里坊は、周囲を穴太衆積みの石垣と塀や生垣に囲まれ道路に面して門を構える。その中に庭園と建物がある。庭園は広々として素晴らしい。里坊は高僧の住まいらしく止観院、恵光院、律院など思索敵的な名前がつけられている。その景観は、文化庁の重要伝統的建造物群保存地区に指定されている。

そのなかの旧竹林院の庭園は最近インスタスポットとして人気だ。八王子山を借景にした広大な敷地に築山を築き大宮川の水を引き入れて曲水や滝が作られている。静かなたたずまいが心を癒してくれる。庭の緑が座卓に映り込み光景が映えるらしい。

西教寺と日吉大社、

その他にも見どころがたくさんある。全国３８００社の「山王さん」の総本宮である日吉大社もその一つだ。境内は清流が流れ驚くほど静かで神秘的な雰囲気が漂っている。国宝の東本宮・西本宮の本殿や日本最古の石橋といわれる日吉三橋、猿が座る姿に似た猿石が見どころになる。

神社は平安京の表鬼門の位置に置かれ平安京の時代から京都の御所を守ってきた。比叡山延暦寺の護法神でもある。山王さんのお使いは猿である。猿は「魔が去る」「勝る」に通じる。御所の鬼門にも木彫りの猿がいる。境内はもみじの名所としても有名で秋はライトアップがされる。

西教寺は、聖徳太子により創建されたと伝えられる天台真盛宗の総本山である。慈恵大師良源上人が室町時代に荒廃していた寺を復興した。その後、真盛上人が堂塔と教法を再興して戒律・念仏の道場とする。本堂は総欅造りの荘厳なもので重要文化財の丈六の阿弥陀如来が安置されている。

客殿は、伏見桃山城の宮殿を移築した。多くの狩野派の絵、人物・花鳥襖絵が残されている。庭園は裏山の傾斜を巧みに利用した小堀遠州作の客殿庭園が有名だ。その他にも三つの庭園があり四季折々の自然を楽しめる。西教寺は明智光秀ゆかりの寺でもある。寺は信長の比叡山焼き討ちで焼失した。その復興に尽力したのが光秀であり、境内に光秀の妻熙子や一族の墓所がある。ここは山門から見る琵琶湖が美しい。

滋賀院門跡

滋賀院門跡は天海大僧正が京都北白川の法勝寺を移転したもので、江戸時代末まで皇族が天台座主を務めた高い格式を誇る。穴太衆積みの石垣に囲まれた広大な敷地には、江戸時代初期に狩野派によって障壁画が描かれた書院や小堀遠州作の庭園がある。庭園は石組みや植栽、滝や石橋が素晴らしい。

天海僧正は１０８歳まで生きたと言われる徳川家康の陰のアドバイザーである。江戸の霊的バリアーを設計したとも言われる。その正体は死んだはずの明智光秀という説がある。根拠は筆跡や僧正が桔梗の紋を使ったことだ。明智家の家紋は桔梗だった。天海僧正は、明智光秀ゆかり坂本を支援した、ひょっとしたら本当かもしれない。その他にも日吉東照宮、律院、慈眼堂などの名蹟がある。時間があればケーブルカーで比叡山山頂の延暦寺を訪ねたい。

京都の観光名所はどこも人が溢れている。そこに比べるとここは驚くほど静かである。雑踏はごめんだと思ったら坂本まで足を伸ばして静寂のなかに身を置くのはどうだろう。街は春の桜、夏の清流、秋の紅葉、冬の雪、季節ごとに表情を変える。中世の面影を残す街で半日を過ごすのは悪くない。お腹が減れば創業３００年の蕎麦屋「鶴喜」が待っている。天ぷら蕎麦を食べれば完璧である。